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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Leek and cheese flamiches


As the name implies, these brioche-based tarts are of Flemish origin, but they have been baked in France since the 14th century. We've made two flamiches here with two simple fillings.

You'll need

450 gm (3 cups) bread flour 5 gm dried yeast 2 tsp caster sugar 6 eggs, at room temperature 170 gm softened butter For greasing: oil To serve: green salad (optional)   Leek filling 30 gm butter, coarsely chopped 2 leeks, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced 40 ml dry white wine 1 egg 1 egg yolk 150 gm crème fraîche 50 gm coarsely grated Gruyère 2 tbsp thyme   Cheese filling 1 egg 1 egg yolk 125 ml (½ cup) pouring cream ½ tsp finely grated nutmeg 180 gm washed-rind cheese, such as Münster or Pont l’Évêque, rind discarded, coarsely chopped ¼ cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Method

  • 01
  • Combine flour, yeast, sugar and 2 tsp fine salt in an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook, add eggs, knead until smooth (3-4 minutes). Gradually add butter, kneading continuously until glossy (4-5 minutes). Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl, stand in a warm place until doubled in size (2-2½ hours).
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, for leek filling, melt butter in a large saucepan over low heat, add leek and stir to coat. Add wine, season to taste, cover and cook until very tender (15-20 minutes), remove lid and cook until liquid evaporates (4-5 minutes), then cool completely. Whisk egg, yolk and crème fraîche in a bowl, stir in Gruyère, leek and thyme, season to taste.
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, for cheese filling, whisk egg, yolk, cream and nutmeg in a bowl to combine, season to taste, stir in cheese and parsley.
  • 04
  • Preheat oven to 190C. Knock down dough, divide in half, then roll out each piece to a 35cm-diameter round and line two buttered 25cm-diameter pie tins, letting dough overhang sides. Spread leek filling in one tin and cheese filling in the other, fold in edges, pleating as you go, then bake until golden and cooked through (40-45 minutes). Serve hot with a simple vinaigrette-dressed green salad.

At A Glance

  • Serves 10 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 10 people

Drink Suggestion

Complex wheat beer.

Featured in

Jul 2011

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