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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

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Knives and Ink chef tattoos

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Berry recipes

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Seabourn Encore luxury cruise ship

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Ben Shewry's favourtie souvlaki restaurant in Melbourne Kalimera Souvlaki Art

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Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Cauliflower salad with orange and cumin dressing, and buffalo yoghurt


Raw cauliflower is fantastic in a salad for extreme crunch. Make sure you give it enough time in the dressing to soak up the flavours. Begin this recipe a day ahead to drain the yoghurt.

You'll need

500 gm buffalo yoghurt (see note) ½ cauliflower, about 400gm broken into small florets 2 each purple and orange carrots, thinly sliced on a mandolin 1 cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley ½ cup (loosely packed) dill 50 gm pistachios, coarsely chopped To serve: dried chilli flakes   Orange and cumin dressing 1 tsp cumin seeds 100 ml extra-virgin olive oil 80 ml (1/3 cup) orange juice 60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice 1 tbsp red wine vinegar ½ tsp honey

Method

  • 01
  • Place buffalo yoghurt in a colander or sieve lined with muslin, then place over a bowl to drain, cover and refrigerate overnight until thick (discard liquid).
  • 02
  • For orange and cumin dressing, dry-roast cumin seeds (30 seconds) then crush in a mortar and pestle. Transfer to a bowl, add remaining ingredients, whisk and season to taste. Set aside.
  • 03
  • Combine cauliflower and carrot in a large bowl, add dressing toss to combine, season to taste and set aside until carrot starts to soften (3-5 minutes). Add herbs, reserving some for garnish, toss to combine and serve scattered with reserved herbs, pistachios, chilli flakes and buffalo yoghurt on the side.

Note Buffalo yoghurt is available from select delicatessens and grocers. Sheep's milk or Greek-style yoghurt make great substitutes.


At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people

Drink Suggestion

Spanish verdejo.

Featured in

Dec 2013

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