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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Smoked chicken ramen with corn


This ramen stock has been inspired by a David Chang recipe in his book Momofuku.

You'll need

10 cm piece of konbu 35 gm (1 cup) dried shiitake mushrooms 4 chicken Marylands 400 gm piece of bacon, rind on (see note) 1 kg pork bones, coarsely chopped (see note) 2 carrots, coarsely chopped 1 onion, coarsely chopped 9 spring onions, coarsely chopped 3 corn cobs, kernels removed 200 gm fresh ramen noodles 4 soft-boiled eggs, halved To serve: black sesame seeds and nori   Smoked chicken 80 gm apple woodchips, soaked in cold water for at least 1 hour, drained 4 chicken breasts, skin on

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat oven to 200C. Rinse konbu, place in a stockpot with 6 litres water over high heat and bring to the boil. Remove from heat, set aside to infuse (10 minutes), then discard konbu and return pan to heat. Add shiitakes and simmer over medium heat until plump (30 minutes). Remove mushrooms with a slotted spoon (discard), add chicken Marylands and bacon, and simmer for flavour to develop (45 minutes to 1 hour).
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, spread pork bones in a roasting pan and roast, turning once, until browned (45 minutes to 1 hour). Add to stock and simmer for flavours to develop (6-7 hours). Add carrot, onion and 6 spring onions in the last hour of cooking. Strain (discard solids).
  • 03
  • For smoked chicken, prepare a coal-bedded kettle barbecue for indirect grilling (see note) and preheat to 150C. Add woodchips around coals until smoking. Rub chicken with salt, place on rack skin-side down, cover and smoke, adding extra woodchips if required, until golden and cooked through (50 minutes to 1 hour). Set aside to rest (15 minutes), then thinly slice.
  • 04
  • Cook corn in a large saucepan of boiling salted water (3-4 minutes), drain and set aside.
  • 05
  • Cook noodles in a saucepan of boiling salted water (2-3 minutes) and drain. Divide among serving bowls along with corn, add stock (there will be some leftover; it can be frozen for later use), top with smoked chicken and half an egg, scatter with remaining spring onions and sesame seeds, add nori and serve hot.

Note You'll need to order slab bacon and pork bones from your butcher, who can also chop the bones for you. Indirect grilling is cooking away from the heat, using the top rack. It's important to have your coal base well established and glowing before adding woodchips.


At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people

Drink Suggestion

Koshu (aged sake).

Featured in

Jun 2014

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