Lunch Tue-Fri noon-3pm
Dinner Mon-Sat 5pm-10pm
Overlooking the tree-lined Fawkner Park, Bistro Gitan occupies a particularly blessed quadrant of South Yarra where nothing, it seems, could go wrong. Here, little does. The pearls-and-polo set comfortably take to their bentwood chairs and glasses of Perrier-Jouët from the French-accented wine list before entrusting themselves to the Reymond family's famed hospitality, albeit in more Antipodean culinary territory than one might expect. The Mooloolaba prawn cocktail, swathed in mandarin, grapefruit, avocado and tomato sauce, might evoke memories of the 1980s, while kingfish is enlivened by a jalapeño and green capsicum sauce with radish and salmon roe. Panko-crumbed garfish with crisp squid and fennel (and a ginger and lemon mayonnaise for acidity) is fish, without chips, done right. Panna cotta with a pleasant yoghurt-driven flourish rounds out a night of Bistro Gitan's trademark, open-collared stealth luxe.