Overlooking the tree-lined Fawkner Park, Bistro Gitan occupies a particularly blessed quadrant of South Yarra where nothing, it seems, could go wrong. Here, little does. The pearls-and-polo set comfortably take to their bentwood chairs and glasses of Perrier-Jouët from the French-accented wine list before entrusting themselves to the Reymond family’s famed hospitality, albeit in more Antipodean culinary territory than one might expect. The Mooloolaba prawn cocktail, swathed in mandarin, grapefruit, avocado and tomato sauce, might evoke memories of the 1980s, while kingfish is enlivened by a jalapeño and green capsicum sauce with radish and salmon roe. Panko-crumbed garfish with crisp squid and fennel (and a ginger and lemon mayonnaise for acidity) is fish, without chips, done right. Panna cotta with a pleasant yoghurt-driven flourish rounds out a night of Bistro Gitan’s trademark, open-collared stealth luxe.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
