Love stories and restaurants have provided moments of escapism throughout history. This new addition to Adelaide’s CBD combines both. Barro’s heart-driven story began in Mexico City where chef Alejandro Huerta and pastry chef and sommelier Galia Valadez grew up (Alejandro south of the city, Galia north). The couple met in Sydney eight years ago while working at Chica Bonita and eventually chose a quiet Adelaide side street on which to open their small, narrow restaurant, Barro, named after the clay used in handcrafted crockery and vessels that hold mezcal.
It’s an instantly welcoming space; dimly lit yet buzzing with energy. In the kitchen, a love letter to Mexico unfolds. Acclaimed chef Huerta (Pujol in Mexico City, Noma in Copenhagen, Alinea in Chicago) makes dishes that remind him of home, the tacos proving a satisfyingly crunchy highlight, made with duck cooked over coals, or pressed pig’s head. The reduced “pozole” sauce, served with a bitter pápalo leaf, is a throwback to happy times in the kitchen making chilli-seasoned soup with his grandmother and mother.
The pair sources spices and chocolate from their homeland and embrace local Fair Seafood for the small bites that kick off the eight-course set menu. Ceviche in nannygai, thinly sliced green tomato and soul-settling coconut milk; and small crumpets crowned in burnt shishito and Two Gulfs Crab spanner crab.
Mole coloradito is a recipe from Huerta’s great-grandmother who migrated to Mexico from Poland during World War II. The thick, spicy sauce arrives topped with earthy Choice Mushrooms and bright zucchini flowers ripe for dipping. It is served in sync with tender lamb shoulder, cooked slow and traditionally thanks to a barbacoa recipe from Guadalajara-born sous chef Fernando Alvarez.
Valadez works the room with a warm smile and a selection of Mexican spirits – sotol, raicilla, bacanora and charanda – that demand a side of storytelling. The thoughtful wine list draws on time spent working in Australia’s regions; from New South Wales to Victoria’s King Valley. Locally, expect the likes of Ngeringa, Ministry of Clouds, Praeter, LVDO and Somos.
Adelaide’s Faculty Design nailed the homely aesthetic; paintings inspired by those in Valadez’s family home (and a sunflower – Huerta’s mother’s favourite), and shelves dotted with pieces crafted by artisans in Tequisquiapan, the town in which Valadez and Huerta wed. There’s loteria (Mexican bingo), statues of alebrijes (mystical animals), and xoloitzcuintle, the Mexican dog said to help you cross the bridge to the afterlife. As last suppers go, the Manchego cheese tart and mezcal finale makes this an exceptionally fun place to do it.
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