Fergus Hurst
In a city already saturated with steak restaurants, it takes something special to earn a place in the hearts of Brisbane diners – now more than ever. San Telmo Brisbane earns it by doing the obvious: providing an authentic Argentine experience. Think braised beef empanadas, morcilla (blood sausage) and alfajores (dulce de leche-filled cookies), alongside a wine list highlighting the country’s regional diversity, from malbec to bonarda and torrontés. But as a parrilla restaurant, it’s unquestionably about the beef.
Numerous cuts from top-quality Australian producers Stockyard and O’Connor are on offer, expertly cooked on the custom-built parrilla. There’s exemplary dry-aged striploin and T-bone, sure, but don’t overlook less-common cuts like the tira de asado – beef short ribs cut across the bone. Straight off the grill, the smell is so intoxicating you can’t help but dive in with your hands and gnaw the bone clean. Even better, add a smear of complimentary chimichurri, which the waitstaff happily replenish whenever you run low.
Further afield, there’s a refreshing South American-inspired starter of raw kingfish in a zesty capsicum leche de tigre; split king prawns heavily charred on the grill with ají molido (a traditional Argentine red chilli) and crisp” capers; and a precisely cooked Margra lamb rump which boasts a nice crust. It’s a confident, well-drilled menu, although as an essential part of a traditional asado experience I’d love to see more offal; I’m promised it’s on the cards once they work out a consistent supply.
As the first interstate venue from the Melbourne-based San Telmo Group (San Telmo, Asado, Palermo and more), there’s a lot riding on its success. Two long-term employees have moved north to lead the team, and both are regularly onsite: Mikey Dalton in the kitchen and Ben Robinson on the floor. It shows how serious the team is treating the expansion.
Location also counts for a lot here; this part of the city is having a resurgence, with the openings of The French Exit and Golden Avenue across the road. It makes for ideal business lunch trade during the day, but the dark, leather-clad dining room shifts gear at night. When GT visits, it’s fast-paced and fun, packed with date nights and families.
There’s plenty of excitement around Brisbane’s dining scene, so it’s no surprise we’re seeing interstate operators getting in on the action. While a few have come and gone, others have earned themselves a devoted following (see: Andrew McConnell’s Supernormal Brisbane and Shane Delia’s Layla). I’m confidently adding San Telmo Brisbane to that list.
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