Lunch daily noon-3pm
Dinner daily 5.30pm-9.30pm
What was once Café Nice is now owned by the group that owns Ananas, the brasserie that's currently moving from The Rocks to Darling Harbour, so pineapple lamps have been added to the bright, bold Riviera-inspired décor and the menu isn't so strictly Provençale. Bistro classics such as buttery escargots and mussels in white wine now adorn the carte, and the produce is sourced with less regard for geography and season, the lobster hailing from the Atlantic, and asparagus appearing in the middle of winter. The flavours of the south still rule the roost: the Niçoise sandwich pan bagnat is reimagined as a neat seared tuna entrée with green beans, quail egg, a shard of bread and Éspelette pepper, while tapenade and tomato fondue make sympathetic partners for competently cooked dory fillets. Service, which was almost thrillingly shambolic in the last incarnation, is now merely rote, but value, especially at the bar, remains strong.
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