What was once Café Nice is now owned by the group that owns Ananas, the brasserie that’s currently moving from The Rocks to Darling Harbour, so pineapple lamps have been added to the bright, bold Riviera-inspired décor and the menu isn’t so strictly Provençale. Bistro classics such as buttery escargots and mussels in white wine now adorn the carte, and the produce is sourced with less regard for geography and season, the lobster hailing from the Atlantic, and asparagus appearing in the middle of winter. The flavours of the south still rule the roost: the Niçoise sandwich pan bagnat is reimagined as a neat seared tuna entrée with green beans, quail egg, a shard of bread and Éspelette pepper, while tapenade and tomato fondue make sympathetic partners for competently cooked dory fillets. Service, which was almost thrillingly shambolic in the last incarnation, is now merely rote, but value, especially at the bar, remains strong.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
