Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm
Dinner Mon-Fri 6pm-11pm, Sat 5.45pm-11pm
With its high-wire act of empty birdcages, China Lane looks at first like the setting for an arthouse film. Inside, the dreamscape continues: is this 1930s Shanghai peopled with coolly confidentMad Menextras? The suited-up lunchers are here for the smart Asian eats and great-value drinks. Duck pancakes, pork sang choi bau, and salt and pepper prawns may be familiar Cantonese tropes, but the versions here win in the details: delicate steamed pancakes, juicy duck breast, crackly of skin, masterful tapioca-crusted prawns. The more inventive dishes highlight the kitchen's skill in skipping across Asia, flavours blending harmoniously rather than haphazardly. Raw kingfish is zippy with wasabi and shiso; sticky satay pork ribs are soulfully street style; while chocolate ginger mousse with salted peanut ice-cream is decadent fun. Staff are proficient, polished and adept at aligning the stars for laneway lovers.