Dinner Tue-Sat 6.30pm-9.30pm
A mainstay of the Hobart culinary experience, Lebrina offers a unique kind of quiet comfort, with a menu that's both somehow hearty and elegant in its restraint. Tasmanian produce is celebrated in French and Italian classics. Buttery gnocchi arrive stuffed with rosemary-tinged venison; rare pigeon sits on polenta surrounded by its own light essence alongside crisp pancetta. A beetroot and mint salad brightens duck fillet on lentils, even if the seasoning is perhaps more emphatic here than is ideal. It's not a meal without charming bonuses - choux pastry filled with goat's cheese makes for a fine amuse-bouche - while a curiously good Tasmanian shiraz from Waterton crowns a comprehensive wine list. Everything here is familiar, right down to the homely setting, and the welcome of the staff. Conclude with something salacious like sago pudding surrounded by a fruity pouring cream. Pure comfort.