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Dinner Tue-Sat 6.30pm-9.30pm
The domestic-sized dining rooms in this Georgian cottage are slightly shocking to anyone under 40 used to pumping music and open spaces. It takes time adjusting to a hushed room where the music runs to What a Difference a Day Makes, but if you can (or if you pine for an easily heard conversation) the reward is Scott Minervini's appealing, meticulously seasoned dishes. There are the classics, such as twice-cooked cheese soufflé or wood-roasted bar cod, but most dishes, while classically based, have individual twists. Spikes of pickled eggplant enhance seared scallops and confit pork belly, while pumpkin custard lifts slow-cooked lamb Scotch and its braising juices beyond mere tastiness. For dessert, a pudding such as the chocolate budino does the trick nicely. The wine list, which is strong on Tasmanian and well-known Australian labels, benefits from Minervini's approach of holding cellar-worthy drops.
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