Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Lebrina
Modern Australian
  • 155 New Town Rd,
    New Town,
    Hobart, TAS
  • (03) 6228 7775,
    www.lebrina.com
  • Dinner Tue-Sat 6.30pm-9.30pm

Lebrina
-42.858813,147.304795

A mainstay of the Hobart culinary experience, Lebrina offers a unique kind of quiet comfort, with a menu that's both somehow hearty and elegant in its restraint. Tasmanian produce is celebrated in French and Italian classics. Buttery gnocchi arrive stuffed with rosemary-tinged venison; rare pigeon sits on polenta surrounded by its own light essence alongside crisp pancetta. A beetroot and mint salad brightens duck fillet on lentils, even if the seasoning is perhaps more emphatic here than is ideal. It's not a meal without charming bonuses - choux pastry filled with goat's cheese makes for a fine amuse-bouche - while a curiously good Tasmanian shiraz from Waterton crowns a comprehensive wine list. Everything here is familiar, right down to the homely setting, and the welcome of the staff. Conclude with something salacious like sago pudding surrounded by a fruity pouring cream. Pure comfort. 


You might also like:

Albert Street Food & Wine

Philippa Sibley may have left the building, but Albert St F...

Aravina Estate

The family-friendly nature of Aravina explains the terracot...

At a glance

  • Wine:
  • One glass
  • Price:
  • E $29-$33

    M $50

    D $19-$21

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Private room
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Scott Minervini

MOST VIEWED IN OUR RESTAURANT GUIDE

Aløft

Hobart, TAS
There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-...

Brae

Birregurra, VIC
Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but pain...

Attica

Melbourne, VIC
One of Ben Shewry's great strengths is his ability to transform the potentially hokey int...

Da Noi

Melbourne, VIC
First-timers should know a couple of things about Da Noi. First, there's no menu. Second,...

Bar Lourinha

Melbourne, VIC
Turning 10 has added spring to Bar Lourinha's step. Not that this perennially crowded fav...

1889 Enoteca

Brisbane, QLD
There's no better place in Brisbane to enjoy regional classics and seek out exciting, low...

Aubergine

Griffith, ACT
The grey-whiskered Ben Willis could pass for a maturing, but certainly not jaded, rock st...

10 William Street

Sydney, NSW
What a difference a year makes. After a variety of guest-chef talent passed through it, t...
get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×