Dinner Tue-Sat 6.30pm-9.30pm
Lebrina has been doing its Old-World French/Italian-inspired thing for more than 20 years. And while every city's got a place where the linen is pressed, the service formal and slightly aloof, the wine list leans classic and glazes burnish meals more often seen in an Evelyn Waugh novel than a new-millennium menu, there's a fine line between tradition and going through the motions. Some dishes keep the faith. Gruyère souffle - a standard celebrating its 20th anniversary - is a sensual mouthful, creamy, warm and richer than Warren Buffett. Others - very thoroughly cooked fish, uninspiring sides - aren't keeping up with the times, and can be hard to swallow at this price point. But pigeon breast, perfumed with spice from its Marsala glaze, comes out a pretty pink under perfect crisp skin. It's rich stuff; be sure to pack an appetite. Or else loosen the belt a notch or two during dinner. But discreetly, please - there are standards to uphold.