Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm
Dinner Mon-Sat 5pm-1am
One prevailing strategy for landing a chair at this hugely popular basement brasserie is going with a gang of six or more, so you can book a table by the stage in the swinging main room and make the most of the chicken in bread sauce with green garlic, the fish baked in paper with anchovy butter or the big dishes to share. Or you could come as a couple and take your chances with a seat at one of the two splendid bars, where icy Martinis and pours from the stellar wine list complement textbook artichokes barigoule and escargot given a wholly effective local twist with XO sauce. Whichever route you choose, convivial good times are assured. The tasselled lamps and dripping candles might seem paint-by-numbers, yet they're put together with heart - the bistro spirit is alive and well here. The illusion can flicker (so-so charcuterie, bathrooms that are more bar than restaurant), but Hubert keeps the feather in the air with rare swagger.