Is there a restaurant with more personality in Sydney than Hubert? Perhaps not. And it’s the gestalt of the place that makes it: that staircase, that theatre, the live jazz band, the Allie Webb-stamped collateral, those waiters navigating tables at full pelt. French food with just enough of a thoughtful twist has always backed up the aesthetic chutzpah, too, but new executive chef Brendan Fong has breathed new life into the menu with outstanding results. A springy, sweet scallop-and-prawn toast coated in Panko crumbs now sits comfortably alongside that somehow delicate Gruyère soufflé and those escargots roasted in heady XO butter. Wasabi sneaks into Dijon mustard to accompany an expertly made, salty duck neck sausage, while a hearty Margra lamb Barnsley chop and whole chicken fricassée offer large-format comfort. In a constantly changing, fast-paced part of the CBD, Hubert remains as reliable as ever, a place to slow down and settle in.
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Keith Webb
