Smolt is the Volvo of Hobart restaurants: always reliable, without making a fuss. Secure in their sleek surrounds, staff are efficient and knowledgeable. Seasonal menu changes don't eliminate the gold standard of the regulars, with scallops on silky saffron risotto and fluffy gnocchi set against meaty mushrooms both highlights. The pizze are crisp and slow-cooked meats make for filling main courses - pork, for instance, with clever takes on the traditional accompaniments: a cloud of carrot purée, tart raw apple and fennel, and crunchy morcilla as moreish as crackling. With so much choice, it's easy to fall into a FOMO funk, but help's at hand in the form of small plates, offering the best of surf, turf and leaf, presented in an alluring mix of colours and textures. Juicy octopus rests in a garden of crushed potato, green beans, lemon and kale; a beetroot and goat's curd salad is Goldilocks right, not too sweet, not too tart. As a bonus, there's room for dessert.
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