Lulu La Delizia: Restaurant review

The pasta at Lulu La Delizia hits different. Whether you're marvelling at the bite of the gramigna, admiring the ornate corzetti or surrendering to the pleasures of a gutsy boar and smoked pancetta ragù, this new-wave osteria in Perth's inner west redefines the possibilities of flour power. Yet top tier carb-loading is just one of the reasons why locals and clued-up visitors hustle hard for tables. Many come to witness Joel Valvasori-Pereza reference his family's Northern Italian heritage in cool, unexpected ways; from sweet-savoury squid ink fritole dusted with fennel sugar and presented with mascarpone and salmon roe, to using poppy seeds to crunch up precision-cut raw scallops. This is a loud, high-octane ride, ably fuelled by a crack floor team that seems to be enjoying the night as much as guests, as well as a formidable Aus-talian drinks list that favours boutique beer, wine and – fittingly – potent grappa.

Lulu La Delizia
5/97 Rokeby Rd, Subiaco, WA
(08) 9381 2466
lululadelizia.com.au

Chef Joel Valvasori-Pereza
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes