Leonards Mill: Restaurant review

Expect a warm welcome at the restored 170-year-old flour mill, where you can sit on the lawn, expansive deck or inside the three-level venue. Food is drawn from Kangaroo Island and the Fleurieu, supported by a considered South Australian wine list. Paper-thin kingfish sashimi works well with the bitter flavour and crunch of radish, preserved lemon and coriander. The substitution of peas for broad beans disappoints in a dish of ricotta, fennel and anchovy, while ling with eggplant, olive and confit tomato looks pretty but falls short in flavour and texture. There's a lot to love, however, in tender beef flank, richly flavoured with pepper and smoked spring onion, and topped with salt-and-vinegar saltbush crisps. Desserts are impressive: pineapple sorbet lollipops, served on sugar sticks with silky coconut crème fraîche and a kalamansi jelly, are undeniably fun, as is a marzipan-heavy frangipane tart topped with fresh strawberry and chunks of honeycomb.

Phone:
(08) 8598 4184

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Chef(s):
Wayne Leeson