Restaurant Reviews

Marion: Restaurant review

Marion

Address

53 Gertrude St
Fitzroy, Melbourne, VIC
Australia

Hours

Breakfast Sat-Sun 8am-11.30am
Fri-Sun noon-11pm, Mon-Thu 5pm-11pm

Prices

E $10-$18
M $26-$38
D $14

REVIEW

Marion's seductive charms have created a Gertrude Street conspiracy theory: that Andrew McConnell's wine bar is so good it eclipsed the much bigger, older sibling next door. Whether Marion did in fact inspire a recent refit of Cutler & Co is best discussed on a black banquette, holding a glass of something you've never heard of (and quite possibly of the natural persuasion), a plate of mussels with lovage oil and fiery fried crumbs of 'nduja to hand (a dish McConnell knows not to mess with at his peril). Marion gets its kicks with creations like kingfish crudo gone gutsy with fine strips of lardo cut through with pickled cucumber; cured pork neck matched by a sharp apple cider and mustard dressing and clean green apple swatches and asparagus in a custardy Comté bed, the richness amped to 11 with shaved egg yolk. Marion, thy name is bistronomy. Born as a pit-stop in the McConnell empire, this wine bar has become a star act.

Phone:
(03) 9419 6262

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Outdoor dining
  • Breakfast
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Andrew McConnell & Josh Fry

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.