Marion is the kind of place where a casual night out requires a week’s planning. Securing a table is the only pain you’ll have, however. There’ll be no head-scratching over the love for Andrew McConnell’s little wine bar that rose to the top of his Gertrude Street pops. Take a space with a patina of comfort, add waiters who know to keep pouring from a hip, interesting wine list that also avails itself of Cutler & Co’s deep cellar, then finish with a snack-centric menu that leverages huge personality out of four-ingredient parties. Firm-fleshed cobia crudo stands up to its citrus dressing with fennel and chilli, a salty-skinned confit duck leg enjoys a salty borlotti bean swirl cut by peppery mustard greens, while the prawn roll with horseradish-spiked mayo and nasturtium is Marion’s answer to Supernormal’s lobster roll. Our advice: hit Marion mid-arvo and snack your way through until late.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
