Leigh Griffiths
REVIEW
Porkfat’s larb tells you a lot about why this CBD newcomer is being touted as Sydney’s most impressive Thai opening in several years. Fried nuggets of pork fat, a generous dose of herbs and a dousing of roasted rice powder make the usual pork mix textural, tart, earthy, fresh and ultimately unique. Owner-chef Narin “Jack” Kulasai – a David Thompson alumnus – is to thank. Not only is he remixing classics with premium ingredients (think a green curry enriched with fatty pork jowl and fresh lychees), but he’s also plotting them on a refreshingly short menu filled with rare, regional dishes like a Phuket-style curry with meaty tiger prawns that’s surely one of the most aromatic in town. This is all served in a humble, 30-seat dining room that finds beauty in detail rather than décor – hand-painted Thai ceramics, cute coasters and a service style that switches between graceful, efficient and educational when needed.
ABOUT
Porkfat
Thai
33 Ultimo Rd, Haymarket
0478 565 691
Chef Narin Kulasai
Price guide $
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Sun; Dinner Tue-Sun
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national guide.
