Pledging allegiance to your local Thai restaurant is a Sydney tradition, but Porkfat is a compelling reason to sideline neighbourhood loyalty. Pork is an obvious must, especially unctuous jowl – edges caramelised, textured like Christmas ham and ready to be dipped in strikingly aromatic nahm jim. The same cut is used in exceptional green curry, which delivers as much coconut and galangal perfume as it does chilli heat. Devilishly spicy, brick-red Panang brisket curry presents a reason to order beyond pork, as does a visually striking deep-fried whole barramundi with three-flavour sauce. All the while, a sense of warmth is omnipresent within the split-level diner’s walls, each plate served with care as owner-chef Narin “Jack” Kulasai mans a flaming wok. Small, thoughtful touches such as hand-painted crockery and the option to BYO also play their part, confirming why this once locally loved secret is now a source of citywide pride.
Leigh Griffiths
