Jamón quite simply is the Spanish word for ham. “We call it jamón when the legs of the pork have been cured naturally, leaving the hams hanging to air dry,” explains Alberto Andrés of La Central, a Spanish delicatessen and bodega in Melbourne. “In Spain we differentiate between the shoulder and the leg – when it’s the leg we call it jamón. When it’s the shoulder we call it paleta.” Jamón serrano and jamón Ibérico come from different types of pigs and exhibit varying levels of quality, with the latter being the finest example.
What is jamón serrano?
Spain’s answer to Italian prosciutto, jamón serrano is usually cured for 12-18 months. Many breeds of pig are used, but the most common for serrano is duroc. “It’s the most common pig used to make ham, not only in Spain but across Europe,” explains Andrés. Serrano ham comes in different levels of quality – some very good – and it can be produced all over Spain.
What is jamón Ibérico?
The highest grade of Spanish ham, jamón Ibérico only comes from the Iberian breed of black pig, which is unique to the Iberian Peninsula. Similar to wagyu, fat is distributed throughout the muscle resulting in a marbled texture. This pig grows more slowly and its meat takes longer to cure. “Like wine, it’s a very complex and labour-intensive product to make,” says Andrés.
The quality depends on the lineage of the pig, with at least one of its parents required to be 100 per cent Iberian. Other factors influencing quality and classification are the pig’s diet and the way it is reared. The pig may have grazed freely, usually on acorns (jamón Ibérico de bellota, or acorn-fed Iberian ham); or grazed freely and helped with grain; or if the pig wasn’t free range it was probably fed on grain and legumes. Then there’s the maker, who decides the amount of salt used and the number of days the leg is left for. “When they hang the hams in the workhouse, open windows impact each hanging position differently depending on temperature, humidity and the direction of the wind. They rotate all the hams every week,” says Andrés. The whole process is a huge investment, taking up to 42 weeks and, as a result, jamón Ibérico can cost up to $400 per kilo. “When you buy jamón you’re buying it for the expertise. The majority are family-run businesses that have been around for generations.”
Where can I get jamón?
Import permits, linking the importer directly with the producer, are not easy to get in Australia. Still, it can be found in good Spanish delis, without the bone – bone-in legs cannot be imported into Australia due to biosecurity. “When I started my business, I was selling one leg of Iberico a week – only to Spanish people or serious foodies. Now so many people love this product and we sell about 10 legs a week,” says Andrés. It can be sliced to order; or bought pre-sliced, with more imported serrano and Ibérico options becoming available in Australia. Local producers are also trying their hand at jamón-style hams, which are closer to jamón serrano, and made with Australian pork, rather than imported meat.
How should jamón be served?
It can be sliced and vacuum-packed, but ideally it should be sliced, just wrapped, and eaten soon after. For optimal flavour, jamón should be taken out of the fridge to sit at room temperature for at least 15 minutes before serving. “Jamón Ibérico requires concentration when you consume it – you shouldn’t be doing anything else but enjoying the quality to appreciate it,” says Andrés. Iberico should have a deep ruby red appearance and will melt in your mouth.
It should have fat marbled evenly throughout with soft, buttery flavour notes and traces of nuttiness thanks to the pig’s acorn-rich diet. Serrano can be enjoyed more widely, in bocadillos (sandwiches), laced through potato crisps or chopped up in croquettes. Both should always be enjoyed with the fat on.
Recipes with jamón
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