In Australia, it’s unfortunately easy to overlook New Zealand wines. I know I’m guilty. However, these actions are typically never out of patriotism; our wine regions and possibilities cover many bases while the Old World provides classical excitement and famous, incomparable styles.
On the periphery and across The Ditch, some incredible winemaking slips by unnoticed. But what contemporary New Zealand wines should you direct your palate towards?
New Zealand pinot noir
Central Otago’s reputation with this grape is well-deserved. Dense, silken, and powerful, great examples are in one of the country’s driest places, Bannockburn, noted for its complexity of flavour and herbaceousness: producer Domain Road captures this perfectly.
Meanwhile, neighbouring Queensberry and Wānaka offer more aromatics and elegance as demonstrated at Nanny Goat where fine pinot noir is the calling card.
You may pay more than Adelaide Hills or Yarra Valley, but there’s merit in the extra expense. “There are interesting schist-based and extremely old soils in Central Otago, and then as you get north of Christchurch, it becomes a lot more limestone and reminiscent of Burgundy,” reflects Campbell Burton, a Melbourne-based wine distributor with a penchant for organic winemaking.
“Some excellent pinot noir is coming out of this region, particularly from Black Estate and Vita. These wines cost the same as a well-made Australian wine. They’re made and farmed similarly, but the fruit and structure are quite different in the glass.”
And the fact they are organic and devoid of systemic chemical sprays only adds to their appeal. “These interesting wines, and others, are worth seeking out. You can track down young and exciting Kiwi producers in Australia with a little effort.”
Bigger New Zealand reds
With scarcely any pollution and a thinning ozone layer, one factor many never consider is sunlight. “Light is such a defining aspect of New Zealand. In Hawke’s Bay, particularly, they can achieve optimum ripeness but with low alcohol levels – which you’ll struggle to do anywhere else,” says Burton.
His go-to is Amy Farnsworth’s Amoise label, where she deftly crafts medium-bodied and concentrated reds from cabernet franc and syrah, underscored by distinctiveness yet approachability. “These are genuinely different-tasting wines and styles you will not find in Australia,” says Burton.
“Halcyon Days is another great producer and their sangiovese from last year is low alcohol with soaring perfume and deliciousness. You couldn’t make this wine in the Adelaide Hills.”
Our affinity for bold red wine in the Lucky Country is storied. And while Margaret River and Coonawarra come to mind, Hawke’s Bay is also excellent for the late-ripening tendencies of cabernet sauvignon.
The distinctive terroir of the Gimblett Gravels subregion highlights the interplay of heat-retaining stony soils with oceanic influence. Mills Reef captures this variety’s dark, brooding nature with finesse; their Elspeth Cabernet Sauvignon is a high-value way to sample it.
Notable New Zealand white wines
Rippon in Wānaka must be one of the world’s most beautiful wineries. However, its prowess with gewürztraminer is its true unique selling point.
Outside the French region of Alsace, where it grows triumphantly, New Zealand is one of a few places globally where the white grape excels. Try an off-dry style of this aromatic wine where moreish lychee and rose characters soar.
The North Island coastal town of Gisborne also has a reputation for this sub-category of wines that can vary in dryness and offer superb affordability. A superb match with any food dominated by heat or spice.
Australia might be known for its bone-dry rieslings, but Central Otago emphasises purity of fruit and nuanced minerality from glacial terraces and ancient soils. Among neighbouring vineyards, Prophet’s Rock is a great place to start, with a convincing focus on this variety.
Extended skin contact rieslings are nothing new; a handful of winemakers are going for mouthfeel, leaving bottles unfined, unfiltered, and delicious. Trickier to match when dining – but not impossible – these wines are intelligent and left-of-centre.
Central Otago’s Sato creates riesling and pinot gris that walk the tightrope between skin contact and premium results, redefining conversations around what constitutes fine wine.
Organic and minimal intervention wine in NZ
Dan Gillett of Wine Diamonds and Everyday Wines in Auckland admits New Zealand’s natural wine landscape is a couple of steps behind Australia.
“We had many new people come onto the scene and leave as quickly as they appeared. But there are still ardent vintners out there doing great stuff. Brood is a perfect example in Nelson, who is making noteworthy wine and beer side by side.”
Confirming the adage: it takes a lot of good beer to make great wine. “Their Pollen is a funky chardonnay riesling blend, unusual but smart and great drinking.”
Curtailing the image you need to be hip to drink natty is Bell Hill in North Canterbury. “The chardonnay is their best work. It’s a devoted project centred around soil and climate, so the price point reflects this. Ultimately, their drive is to make the best in the country,” he says. Natural ferments, zero fining, next to no filtering, and organic vineyards all contribute to an irrefutable movement on this bearing.
Gillett confirms it isn’t always a new enterprise, either. “The ones who are succeeding have always used low intervention methods: taking high-quality grapes, doing little to them, and ending up with fabulous wine representative of where it comes from. Hans Herzog is one of those producers,” he says.
The Swiss winemaker and his wife, Therese Herzog, employ a holistic, hands-on methodology across 20-plus varieties at their Wairau Valley vineyard. “He’s taken a long-term approach and succeeds with grapes usually never found in that region.”
New Zealand sauvignon blanc
Let’s not ignore the elephant in the room. I’ve smelt Marlborough sauvignon blanc being opened across a restaurant floor. Yet, despite its prolific status, some winemakers are taking this style and incorporating nous to create a drink that doesn’t scream tropical fruit salad.
Lees stirring, measured use of oak, and careful low-yield fruit growing create an attractive take at Te Whare Ra, where the modus operandi is to restore faith in the potential quality of wines from the region.
On the same train of thought, nearby Tokyo ex-pat Takaki Okada’s Folium wine produces beautifully crafted sauvignon blanc from hand-harvested fully organic vines hinging on meticulous canopy management.
The result is less tropical fruit and atypical zippiness: drink it by itself or pair it with a fish crudo without taking centrestage. Restrained sauvignon blanc from Marlborough does exist. Do your research; reap the rewards.
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