An aria calls for a stand-out soloist – but there are no histrionic prime donne here. In its tenth year, Brisbane’s premier riverfront fine-diner presents as a harmonious group performance, from deft floor staff to the polished interior with its panoramic curve of glass. All up, it’s an agreeably adult affair, which includes Danny’s excellent sourdough, petit fours, an amuse-bouche, pre-dessert and boozy canelés to take home. An epic wine list pays homage to the world’s top regions yet features a Granite Belt offering by the glass. The double-cheese stracciatella di bufala entrée is richer than many regulars, but its parmesan oil dressing is balanced by sweet peas and shaved fennel. From the grill section, Rangers Valley chuck tail arrives with a tangle of watercress and lemon – pristinely perfect. Desserts are applauseworthy, too, perhaps, a refreshing mango and raspberry confection.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
