The dining revolution will not be televised. Mindful eaters need to drive down an unsealed road in Margaret River scrub to see (and taste) it for themselves.
The dining revolution will not be televised. Mindful eaters need to drive down an unsealed road in Margaret River scrub to see (and taste) it for themselves. This off-the-grid cellar door – a warm, country-cosy space adorned with contemporary art and timber floorboards – might not boast the history of some of its neighbours, but its self-sufficient approach offers an inspiring blueprint for tomorrow. Evan Hayter doesn’t just talk the sustainable restaurant talk: he walks the walk, plants the plants in a biodynamic kitchen garden, breeds trout in winter creeks and uses pigs to regenerate the land. He also has the kitchen smarts to turn this virtue into gratifying lunch menus. Misshapen carrots with a soy-cured quail’s egg yolk and estate olive oil equals a stirring vegetarian tartare. Local whiting gets flash-cured by a vinaigrette made from sémillon grapes. Daikon “noodles” and pale slices of air-dried duck in dashi speaks to an interest in Japanese cooking. Estate pork stars in comforting ragù tagliatelle and great smallgoods. Snappy wines, cheerful service and tranquil bushland views from the deck feature among Arimia’s other home-grown assets.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
Jessica Wyld
