You’ll barely have your coat off after stepping into this dim dining room before a leaf-like beetroot wafer slathered with smoked eel mousse, topped with a disc of raspberry and vinegar-coated beetroot hits the table. Both rich and bright, it’s a neat introduction to the classic but slick and relevant fare chef Ben Willis has manifested consistently since taking over the Aubergine kitchen 13 years ago. The menu shifts daily, but expect a few intricate snacks and some pescatarian flashiness before the arrival of the weightier proteins – perhaps a blushing wedge of tender beef accompanied by a pair of smoked potato-filled dumplings that, with a light blanket of buttery truffle sauce, neatly demonstrates the kind of flashy-yet-unobtrusive flavour-mastery Willis wields. And while the wine list dedicates pages to each varietal and showcases a cellar of highly prized vintages, the per-glass offering is as sharp, succinct and balanced as what’s on the plate.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
Alexander Johnston
