At the base of one of many modern apartment blocks dotting Brisbane’s skyline, Billykart is a welcome reminder of suburbia past. An upside-down picket fence becomes a feature wall, while trellis arches over a humming coffee machine. At breakfast, crisp potato waffles provide edge to eggs Benedict and corn fritters are enlivened by chilli. The evening menu is filled with dishes you’ll want to eat, although lacklustre service can let the side down. Smoky duck breast and ‘ducklava’, a savoury version of baklava, comes with zesty pomegranate and walnut pesto. Spit-roasted beef flank is teamed with horseradish and carrots. Australian wines feature strongly, with a focus on minimal-intervention offerings, but waiters struggle to explain the significance. Like the suburban scene it references, Billykart is seen in its best light by day. Keep the Queensland focus going with coconut cake, pineapple curd and a mint lime granita.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
