Shannon Bennett’s Bistro Vue is like a film set. The “stonewashed” walls are plaster, the timber beams are faux, the lighting a touch too bright, but it’s a warm fantasy. The accordion player is genuine, as is his commitment to “La Vie En Rose” each service. While the theatrics are good fun, they’re held to account by chef Thibault Boggio and a switched-on floor team. An entrée of rich, goopy duck egg, crisp kale and herby pork jowl has satisfying textures, while Moreton Bay bug tails lightly fried in beurre noisette smartly balances classic technique and provenance. A confit duck leg with lardons draws you into a provincial Gallic fancy, while an eggy and overly smoky crème brûlée breaks the fourth wall. The wine list flits evenly between local and French labels while the atmospheric dining room invites intimate special occasions along with executives finding brief escape in Gruyère-topped onion soup, sliced bavette and Piaf, before heading back to the real world.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
