Set inside The Star, Black is very much a product of its casino environs, but it plays the hand it is dealt well, offering attentive service in an amusingly blingy room. The Sydney outpost for Melbourne chef Teage Ezard, Black has a focus on steak, and it’s the grill that offers the most satisfaction for the diner. Dry-aged beef rib-eye is deeply tender; the battery of mustards and sauces served with it are probably unnecessary, but it’s a nice touch. Turn instead to juicy Beaujolais, and go all-in with creamed spinach on the side. Spencer Gulf prawns as an entrée are big, and big on flavour, with basil and a spicy roasted chilli dressing. The crab salad with squid-ink crackers and tart passionfruit gel, meanwhile, is definitely original, and a ginger beurre blanc makes a comfortable accompaniment to king salmon. A chocolate ganache with mascarpone ice-cream, cherry gel and cookie crumb delivers the final trump card.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
