At the restaurant for Maxwell Wines, a new pass cut into the limestone dining room wall allows the buzz from the kitchen to filter into a previously austere dining space overlooking vineyards. Eager staff are enthusiastic about chef Fabian Lehmann’s bold flavours, with good reason. He embraces the vitality of local produce – from robust chicken liver parfait on a chicken skin wafer through to rare kangaroo loin in a sauce finished with grated macadamia. Mushrooms grown in the winery’s limestone cave – king trumpet, yellow oyster, shiitake and shimeji – are a star entrée, fried in brown butter and folded with soft-cooked egg. Little touches impress, such as contrasting twin buns (pumpkin and sunflower seed, fennel and saffron) and butter spiked with lemon and dill snow. A list comprising only Maxwell wines limits the matching options, especially with whites, but older vintages provide interesting counterpoints.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
