A rural restaurant within 10 minutes of Parliament House isn’t a difficult concept for occupants of the bush capital to grasp. The farmhouse digs at Pialligo Estate offer rustic charm and the ambience is suitably refined, even if it’s at times marred by wedding-party commotion drifting from outdoor marquees. A deep cellar may be a clue to management priorities, but it’s matched by sharp service and kitchen prowess. Brendan Walsh’s time at Vue de Monde is evident in asymmetrically plated compositions and jus-pouring theatrics. Shaved cucumber and asparagus spears resting on a Comté curd is brought to life with tarragon cream. Steamed snapper is layered in foie gras and charred cabbage. And desserts (such as the creamy hay-infused parfait with sweetcorn custard and pepper-infused ice-cream) push boundaries. Fireside dining and floor-to-ceiling window views across the bountiful Molonglo River flats reinforce Pialligo’s rural appeal.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
