The cavernous glass and steel-framed space bustles with business folk hepped up on one of Sydney’s most voluminous and finely wrought wine lists, dipping into the broad menu that skitters from raw to grilled while touching on tapas and leaning heavily on seafood. For an entrée, try grilled sardines, crunchy and lightly charred, finished with hits of piquancy and sweetness from green tomato and apple chutney. A smart follow-up is quail, its crisp-skinned flesh complemented by silky Japanese custard and given additional complexity by nutty shimeji and a mellow mushroom tea. Snapper fillet comes with modest tempura prawns and curious shreds of Thai salad, the dish bathed in a pungent soup of pleasing heat and sourness. A dozen desserts pay homage to classics and experimentation alike, but top of the list should be the playful, sweet yet refreshing mandarin-spiked panna cotta, finished with zingy ginger beer sorbet.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
