Once part of a store for Sydney’s dapper gentlemen, this dark room has a men’s club feel, only with rather more buzz and relaxed but efficient service. The wine list is easy to navigate and offers a mix of local and international drops, with plenty of finds under $100 and lots to like by the glass (pouring those glasses tableside would be a welcome touch). The menu is rich in seafood, but also includes the wood-grilled likes of the “I only have minutes steak”. This translates to tender rib-eye spiced with anchovy butter, and a salad of watercress and horseradish. The shoestring fries served with it are good, but a side of creamy macaroni and cheese is the star. Kimchi-spiked tuna tartare in lettuce cups and a crunchy salad of raw zucchini, fennel, squash and dill make refreshing entrées, while desserts range from comforting (profiteroles and beignets) to playful, with raspberry popping candy adding pizzazz to peach and rose sorbet.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
