Double-clothed tables. Framed Matisse drawings. Thirty-five-dollar glasses of Bordeaux. Fellow diners who begin their sentences with the phrase, “So I get a call from the ambassador…” Yes, Guillaume is every inchthatrestaurant. The sommelier will have a European accent, the other staff will be quietly competent if not exactly engaging. The same could be said of much of the food, whether it’s the famed Paris mash, as much butter as it is potato, or Murray cod bathed in a rich foam of lobster butter (there’s lots of foam and mousse here now for some reason). Sometimes good ideas are undone by execution questionable at this price point. Topping a wagyu and oyster tartare with caviar and a fried oyster: a good idea. Serving the tartare very cold: not so good. On the plus side, you can set your watch by the duck with roasted pear, endive and honey sauce, and if you prize a well-handled cheeseboard, this is your happy place.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★ ★
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
