While the front bar of this clifftop restaurant and retreat evokes the property’s history, the terrace is more northern-beaches bling, perfect for savouring the tang of the Pacific. Chef Logan Campbell’s time at Italian landmark Lucio’s shows in a rustic black linguine, rich with prawn oil and cherry tomatoes, and flecked with New Zealand whitebait. Caper leaves, salted egg yolk and puffed rice add texture to well-seasoned tartare of beef tri-tip, though main courses, including crisp-skinned duck breast with date purée, and lamb rump with pearl barley and pickled onion, are less memorable. Retro desserts – strawberry shortcake, cobbler and crumble – are a whimsical reminder of Jonah’s 1920s heritage. Slightly formal floor staff can, at times, give the feeling of a hotel dining room, but wine service is excellent and sommelier Luke Collard’s extensive list is a treasure, from the good and affordable to verticals of Grange.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
