Kenzan has deservedly been on every “where to eat good Japanese food in Melbourne” list for decades now. Seats at the sushi bar are scarce because the quality of the seafood and the consistency of the knife skills on display have earned it a fiercely committed following. The dining room with its timber furniture and screened-off tatami rooms offers a masterclass in finessed Aussie-Japanese eating where the high standard of the tsukemono pickles and benchmark chawanmushi is matched by the delicacy of the tempura batter, the grillwork on the miso-marinated butterfish and the marbling on slices of beef for the sukiyaki. The drinks menu, like the larger picture, is genteel and considered – with a solid list of well-annotated sake alongside familiar beer and wine labels. Waiters keep glasses filled and plates cleared with maximum efficiency and minimum fuss. Kenzan is not just consistent, but consistently good. Put it on your list.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
