It’s a Fitzroy dining landmark, but Ladro still pushes a welcome combination of tradition and surprise. A pancetta and pear bruschetta is an inspired entrée, polenta chips with Gorgonzola sauce hit all the right spots and precision-charred Black Angus scotch fillet with horseradish and Volcanic salt is even better with triple-cooked potatoes. But Ladro’s pizze remain the hero. On the gamberi pizza, fior di latte is teamed with prawns and zucchini on a faultlessly thin base and lifted with extra chilli. The air-conditioning can struggle on warm nights, but the crowd typically sits contented in the clean, tranquil interior. The drinks list focuses on Italy, with prosecco ushering you in, a Chianti keeping you captive and a clean, sharp limoncello seeing you out. An over-soaked tiramisù with unnecessary Pop Rocks might be lacking in form, but chocolate-filled cannoli or basil panna cotta with chocolate soil make for strong final impressions.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
