Simonn Hawke expresses the spirit and essence of her dishes rather than engaging in food fashion. Hers is food with cultural cred – there’s Italian passion in the brio and boldness of flavours, and French precision in the intensity of reductions and the intricate presentation. Regulars ponder what they’ll have after the exquisite twice-baked Heidi Gruyère soufflé. If it’s the pan-roasted barramundi fillet with zucchini, fennel, braised leek and a broth of tomatoes, mussels and saffron aïoli, they’ll know how close bouillabaisse can come to deification. If it’s the veal wrapped and roasted in sage and pancetta with parmesan polenta, mushrooms, artichokes, cavolo nero and slow-cooked tomato, they’ll experience what buongustai dream of. Desserts balance density of flavour with lightness of texture, and the choice of cheeses is as mature as the cheeses themselves. The room and the service share sophistication and charm, and wine recommendations are astute.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
