Some dining guides have a worth-a-detour category, reserved for good value, local produce-driven regional diners. That’s exactly the speed at the low-frills, double-fronted shop that houses Mullum’s destination-drive wood-fired pizzeria. Don’t expect any ceremony at this locals’ hangout, where the greeting is likely to be, “Hey, what’s happening?” The less-is-more sustainability theme manifests in scrubbed wooden tables, help-yourself cutlery, a roving short wine selection, glass tumblers and chirpy, if slightly haphazard service. There is no pretension. It simply doesn’t go with these hearty, deftly executed, smoky, hand-wrought pizze. There are 14 to choose from, featuring not-so-trad wood-roasted pork sausage, a roast pumpkin and ricotta with pickled herbs, and a brave pancetta-pineapple number. The salad bursts with chlorophyll-health, undone later by a wicked dollop of seductive dark chocolate mousse. Smiling faces all round.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
