Chef Douglas Elder’s penchant for gels, crumbs and creative plating will impress out-of-towners seeking an affordable taste of fine dining in an approachable, family-friendly space. And at $96 for three courses and matching wines, it really is affordable. Lightly battered quail with rich terrine, yuzu mayonnaise, tangy apple kimchi and slaw is an upmarket take on Japanese fried chicken and Kewpie mayo. Sherry caramel might be a little too aggressive for a Gruyère soufflé, but a pecan financier with intense chocolate sorbet and a no-messing-around espresso gel will appeal to diners with a dark side. (See that chocolate dome acting as a protective layer around the cake? You get to whack it open with your spoon.) With nearly 50 Brown Brothers wines available by the glass at $6 to $8, it’s easy to knock back a few, so sober up with a few rounds of giant chess on the lawn or a snooze on the outdoor beanbags before heading home.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
