Behold, a hotel restaurant that cares. From the house-baked sourdough to the understated interior, the whole package at the Sydney branch of Pei is impressively polished. It’s a level of finesse you’d expect with the culinary genius of Mark Best at the helm. His ethos is clearly delineated: the produce shines, the flavours are fresh and the execution is smart and unadorned. Slices of heirloom tomato burst with ripeness alongside capers and Ortiz anchovies, while fermented spring onion and corn kernels add kick to Nelson Bay pipis in a delicate pale-ale broth, and new-season figs pop against a simple buttermilk ice-cream and honeycomb. The room transcends the stuffiness of a conventional hotel lobby diner with sleek timber furnishings, sultry lighting and a vast open kitchen providing plenty of spectacle. There’s similar consideration in the service and the wine list, both of which are sharp and well conceived.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
Pei Modern
Four Seasons Hotel 199 George St Sydney, NSW Australia
