Double-dressed tables. Fussy compositions on big plates. A chef that loves playing with guests’ food: team Petite Mort evidently missed – or ignored – the memo about contemporary restaurant trends. But for those unmoved by the zeitgeist (no bookings, communal tables, venues that lean more bar than dining room), this bare-brick diner in leafy Shenton Park evokes an era less share platey. As is often the case with such technique-heavy cooking, eaters have to contend with the odd superfluous flourish (sweetcorn veloute adorned with the corn’s silk; a test tube of yuzu jutting out of a soufflé), but the kitchen gets it mostly right. A dainty croquette of braised oxtail meat and beef cheek almost steals the show from a juicy flank steak, while perfectly tender duck breast and a neat brick of leg meat is a win for the classic approach. Reverential service is another flashback to the old-school, as is the drinks list with its strong smattering of French wines and booze.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
