Legendary French chef Philippe Mouchel’s career trajectory in Melbourne may appear progressively more casual (from Bocuse to the bistro-y PM24 and Deja Vue), but the sub-title at his latest venture – “Un restaurant par Philippe Mouchel” – represents a reversal of sorts, a declaration of serious culinary intent. An early clue lies in the oysters: not merely accompanied by the expected mignonette, but instead dramatically suspended in green apple jelly, with an underlying smear of Chantilly cream. It is designed for wow factor and it delivers. The wagyu tartare also surprises, artfully plated, and sweetened with shaved beets and pomegranate to bright, summery effect. There remain comfort points, such as the rôtisserie chicken upon which much of Mouchel’s latter-day reputation lies. Close out dinner with the light, refined oeuf à la neige with passion fruit curd and be witness to high French culinary ambitions expertly realised.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
Philippe
Basement 115-117 Collins St Melbourne, VIC Australia
