This quaint white timber restaurant was a turn-of-the-century ex-Methodist church, tucked down a quiet Penola street. Ten years ago, accomplished floor manager Erika Bowen and her chef husband Simon transformed it into a tidy, efficient dining room, and have remained true to the building’s historic charm. A small but carefully considered à la carte menu focuses on regional produce with a few French twists. Chilled tomato tea sets a tasty tone. A sense of warm, country charm informs a hearty entrée of duck liver pâté on grilled brioche with cornichons, mustard fruits and celeriac rémoulade, and pork double cutlet, white bean and hock ragoût evokes nostalgia for your nanna’s kitchen. South Australian, Victorian and Spanish fortifieds settle a full stomach, while an extensive wine list showcases Coonawarra and Europe. And yes, desserts can be lavish – such as the four sugared yeast doughnuts with coffee, Frangelico ice-cream, macadamia nuts and mint.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
