The name translates as “people” and Popolo is a crowd-pleasing affair. Adoring locals, faithful families and the Zegna set all converge here for its exceptional southern Italian food. The pop in Popolo comes courtesy of Naomi Lowry; her cooking is by turns sophisticated, homespun and transporting. Pasta is a highlight, not least malloreddus with a luxuriously rich pork sausage ragù and grana padano. A classic Sardinian fregola with cuttlefish and calamari is another notable entry, the seafood tender and enlivened with punchy squid-ink sauce and rocket oil. Thin, crisp pizze with simple ingredients also demand attention, while desserts such as poached bosc pear with whipped ricotta are no afterthought. Equipped with sleek interiors of dark timber and glass, supported by charming waitstaff, and blessed with an encyclopedic Italian wine list, Popolo has a decadent air that encourages languid feasting. Salute.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
