This buzzy bolthole in downtown Newie is a real delight: the vibe is relaxed and the food by talented Chris Thornton is top-notch. Soft pillowy gnocchi is glammed up with sweet shredded Fraser Isle spanner crab, chopped asparagus and fried onions adding crunch and texture. Scope out the fish of the day on the compact menu – if it’s snapper fillet with a kaleidoscope of heirloom tomatoes, steamed zucchini flower and braised octopus, go for it. The seafood is treated sensitively and is lip-smackingly good. And the wine options? There’s an Australian-leaning list with a fine selection by the glass. The deconstructed cheesecake is a standout experience, presented in a see-through bowl like a terrarium. The baked vanilla goat’s curd adds a twist to the ubiquitous dessert, while the addition of fresh peaches, gingerbread crumb, raspberry snow and buttermilk white-chocolate ice-cream ensure it tastes as good as it looks.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
