For decades this hallowed site was Claude’s, first French, then not French, then even less French again. Then it was something else. Now it’s St Claude’s, and if the name (and the offer of a twice-baked Gruyère soufflé) is intended as some sort of doff of the hat to the history of this two-storey shopfront, the menu is more its own beast. It’s a modern Australian offer of the sort that’s mostly European with the occasional Eastern accent. Miso and wasabi mingle with pork belly and pear, and feta with a cucumber and mint salad, but trevalla brandade (lush and creamy with the pop of salmon roe and capers), and scallops layered into a savoury millefeuille with rounds of black pudding and a dollop of pumpkin purée are more the kitchen’s métier. A silken slice of salted caramel tart with gingery ice-cream makes for a classical soft landing at dessert, while informed and vigorous service make St Claude’s every inch the welcoming local.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
