Bells and whistles? There aren’t any at this smart neighbourhood Italian restaurant, but that doesn’t stop it having the gravitational pull of a black hole. Rita Macali’s reputation spread citywide last decade with Ladro; now it’s a family affair with husband Giovanni Patane schmoozing the floor with Italian wines and Macali in the kitchen. She sticks to the simple Italian brief so there’s nowhere to hide, food-wise, but it’s all achingly good thanks to the produce (quality), the treatment (sympathetic) and the styling (minimalist). From the brined lupini beans arriving gratis to a fuss-free chocolate panna cotta and raspberry sorbet, it’s a meal played straight and true. A soulful bowl of shredded stracciatella in chicken broth is the Italian answer to Jewish penicillin, while arancini hit a smoky note with scamorza. As for the pizze, crisp yet pliable bases swing either bianco or rosso, topped with judiciously chosen ingredients. If pizze is the meaning of life, nirvana awaits.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
