It’s easy to miss The Devonshire from the street, but step inside and you’ll find a jewel box of a restaurant, decked out with crisp white tablecloths and a swarm of gilt-edged mirrors. The room isn’t huge but the comfort level is high, service is affable, and a short, eclectic wine list covers the bases. Think of it as bistro-plus, a neighbourhood local given a bit more muscle by the high polish Jeremy Bentley gives his food. European training underpins busy, thoroughly worked plates such as a loin of tuna with cured kingfish dressed with Indian spice, which, along with sweet coconut, meshes well with the fish. Roast duck breast with caponata, basil and glazed figs seems more Continental, but its richness is cut with the gentle tang of sumac. As a curtain call, the namesake dessert, a jolly take on Devonshire teas rendered in crème brûlée with scone ice-cream, jam and whipped cream, makes for a playful finish.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
