What’s a restaurant like you doing in a place like this? Not to besmirch the good name of Pakenham, but the Mill is an oasis of finely tuned restaurant values in a ‘hood where pizza joints and chicken shops rule the roost. The upmarket breakfast/brunch zone goes haute at night, when a menu from rising star chef Jake Kellie delivers dishes as dramatic as anywhere in Melbourne. An opening salvo of snacks, a lozenge of pickled juniper with lemon verbena powder and bronze fennel among them, sets the mood and the next five courses hold the pace. A chicken “lollipop” stuffed with chicken mousse and sticky with jus gras keeps things light, while Balmain bug tortellini in kelp broth with nublets of smoked eel hits a refined note. Whether it’s a braised lamb tart topped with discs of white beetroot and fried lemon thyme, or a classic orange marmalade soufflé and toasty sourdough ice-cream, Kellie pulls out all stops. Pakenham ahoy.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
