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REVIEW
The cavernous, gorgeously restored Art Deco lobby of the Primus Hotel is an impressive setting for its signature restaurant. With an open kitchen, carpeted floors and blue and Burgundy banquettes, the dining space nails the grand hotel vibe, even if the well-meaning but slightly shaky service doesn’t. Chef Ryan Hong’s continent-hopping menu might be a puzzling fit with the classic décor but it has inspired moments that deserve attention. Moreton Bay bugs are imaginatively teamed with crushed peanut, grilled watermelon cubes and puréed edamame. Abalone and seaweed come together in a strangely comforting congee-risotto mash-up. Precisely cooked lamb loin shares a plate with sweetbreads and pearl barley, while gin and tonic sorbet lifts fresh berries and meringue. The wine list includes Greece and the US in the usual Old World-New World mix, an encompassing approach neatly mirroring Hong’s wide-ranging style.
Phone:
(02) 8027 8000
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Wheelchair Access
Private room
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Ryan Hong
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
